The proportions of the pyramid are 1.0 : 1.618 : 1.272,
where 1 is half the length of the base of the triangle. My base is 8
cm (i.e. 2 x 4 cm, 4cm being 1.0) and the slope length is 6.5 cm (i.e.
1.618 x 4 cm). The latter is not the height of the completed pyramid,
you can discount that measurement (1.272) entirely as the height will be
correct when you assemble the mould. So when you cut your triangle make
sure the height of it is 6.5 cm (6.472). I got caught out with that for
not paying sufficient attention.
I use a material called Correx, it is a double walled
extruded polypropylene sheet, it is often used in lightweight signs and
placards, grab some of those from a skip somewhere, manufactured by
www.kaysersberg-plastics.com. Resin does not stick to it and is very
easily removed. The moulds need to be replaced every so often, so I made a
perspex template of the triangle shape to make cutting very quick. The
individual parts can be stuck together with masking tape, which is easily
removed and adjusted if necessary, and quite strong enough.
You can see that it makes quite a tight neat fit. Make sure
the point is leak-proof. The resin tends to seep into the corrugations
sideways and makes the mould stiffer which is quite good but it does bend
out of shape after a while.
I then pour a bit of resin mixed with brass shavings into the point (above
right), before putting the crystals or
Big Secret coil, below right, coil
in. This adds a nice touch and distinguishes top and bottom from the side
corners.
Now we come to the crystals. In cooperation with an energy sensitive person
the design that has evolved is two single crystals end-to-end, wrapped in a
copper coil; this is more effective than one DT crystal with copper coil.
The space between the negative poles of the crystal in the middle of the
device acts like a heart.
Alternatively, a
Big Secret coil (above right) can be inserted,
this has a different effect which we have not yet been able to fully
ascertain. Try it and see what happens.
Above you see the completed first or top half of the HED
with the crystals/coils sticking out.
Now, the really important trick is to have a slightly bigger mould for the
bottom half (i.e. 9 cm base x 7.3 cm slope length) so that when you stick
the cured top half into the bottom it swims in the excess resin. This way
you have no air gaps between top and bottom.
Of course, you will then have to trim of the excess resin, I
do this with a big knife and then with the belt sander.
Et voilą!
I am not making these for sale at the minute, so they are a bit rough and
ready but they do their job. Our energy sensitive says that they do the
same work as a CB but on a smaller scale. This will have to be tested in the
wider network.
All the best
Paddy